Getting started with the Doubleweave Study Group

cheriberi wrote

on 20 Jan 2011 10:30 AM

I bought one of those round mirrors that can stand on their own and the positioned it so I could see into the shed to make sure that none of the ends were going to get caught. That way I didn't have to keep bending over and around to the side of the shed to look for each pick. Worked really nice!

Cheryl

Sylvia Lowry wrote

on 6 Feb 2011 9:21 AM

I want to thank you Cheryl for the mirror trick. It does work well and I've added another little trick. Because of the slack lower threads, I don't quite trust the shuttle to avoid picking up one of those bottom threads, so when the mirror tells me that the shed is clear, I insert a stick shuttle in the shed and upend it. and push it to the reed to create a wide and clear shed. No more migrating threads to the wrong surface.

Happy doubleweaving.

Sylvia

drakema wrote

on 25 Dec 2011 7:51 AM

Hi There,

Sorry to hit reply to your post, but I cannot figure out how to start a new discussion line. I am embarking on a large double weave project and I need all the help I can get for avoiding errors at the fold.

Thanks,
Mary Ann

julia toft wrote

on 14 Jan 2012 4:31 AM

Hello Jennifer

I have just had a delightful three days working through your Doubleweave Book (Basics) and am rather proud of the sampler I have made :-)  I have a homemade 4 shaft countermarche loom and i used the following tie-ups on 8 pedals, with light thread on shafts 1 and 2, dark on 3 and 4 as per your book:

Treadle 1: Raise shaft 1; lower shafts 2,3,4

Treadle 2: Raise shafts 1,3,4; lower shaft 2

Treadle 3: Raise shafts 1,2,3; lower shaft 4

Treadle 4 raise shaft 3; Lower shafts 1,2,4

Treadle 5: Raise shaft 2; lower shaft 1,3,4

Treadle 6: Raise shafts 2,3,4; lower shaft 1

Treadle 7: Raise shafts 1,2,4; Lower shaft 3

Treadle 8: Raise shaft 4; lower shaft 1,2,3

For your techniques:

This allowed me to treadle 1,3,5,7 for light on top and 4,2,8,6 for dark on top.  

For a fold with light on top I used 1,3,7,5 and for dark on top, 4,2,6,8.  Mixed was 1,2,7,8.  

For a tube I used 1,3,5,7 (for light on top) or 4,2,8,6 for dark on top.  

Three tubes side by side; 1,2,8,7 and with a slit, 4,2,8,6 followed by 4,8,2,4,8,6 then back to 4,2,8,6.  

For colour and weave I used 1 followed by 2 with dark then 8 followed by 7 with light to give vertical stripes, and reversed the colours for horizontal stripes.  Vertical and horizontal stripes: 8 followed by 2 with light then 1 followed by 7 with dark.  

For technique 7 there is a need to change treadle 1 tie ups to lift 1 and 3 (lower 2 and 4) and to change treadle 5 tie ups to lift 2 and 3, lower 1 and 4.

I found the tie ups to be very symmetrical and to follow your "treadle on the left if shuttle is on left" idea!  Only one pedal needs to be pressed each time and I had excellent sheds (better than for skeleton tie-up).

I hope this is a help for someone else who wishes to try this exciting type of weaving on a countermarche loom with 8 treadles!

all the best and many thanks for an excellent and exciting DVD tutorial

Julia

julia toft wrote

on 14 Jan 2012 4:56 AM

Just found a way to draw this in a diagram:

X REP BOTTOM LAM TIE SO RAISES SHAFT

O REP TOP LAM TIE SO LOWERS SHAFT