Joining this study group

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Top 25 Contributor
Posts 45
Fortin wrote
on 20 Aug 2010 8:50 AM

Sunshein,

Not sure if you received the list, I did post it to a reply on the auto email I received.  Let me know.

Sarah

Top 150 Contributor
Posts 6
Sunshein wrote
on 20 Aug 2010 10:05 AM

Sarah,

 

I just checked my e-mail and saw this post, but nothing else. Wonder if I wasn't included on the original list.

 

Sunshein

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Posts 1
on 31 Aug 2010 5:57 PM

Greetings Sarah,

I would be interested in learning more on Shadow weave. I love the few items I have made in this structure, but did not realize there is a difference between Atwater & Powell's work. So lots to learn.  Is there a deadline on signing-up for this study group.    Also, any due date?

Is there anything else I need to do to sign up?

An introduction to others in group. I've been weaving for about 16 years - don't be fooled by that, as I was building a house for one of those years and I was a caregiver for 4 of those years and weaving was put on the back burner for both.  I love color and weave effects and the few items I have woven in shadow weave meet my need of a challenge. ;-)

Curious to know the differences between undulating twill and shadow weave, if any. And does Atwater or Powell address this?

I also see this is suppose to be for Log Cabin as well. I've never woven log cabin... just haven't gotten around to it, I guess.

Melinda

Top 25 Contributor
Posts 45
Fortin wrote
on 24 Sep 2010 1:18 PM

Hi Melinda,

Welcome to the Shadow Weave group.  Am sorry to be so late with this reply.  Got lost in the shuffle when preparing to leave for vacation, returned last night.

Hopefully, you have had a chance to read the other suggestions in the posts for this group.  Undulating twill is a twill derivative, usually threaded in one color and woven in another.  There are a few shadow weave threadings/treadlings that look like undulations, threaded with alternating colors, (ie: dark/light) as in Powell 4-23-2, pg. 139 or Strickler, pg. 73, ##287 and pg. 77.  Check Alderman's book for undulating twill threadings.

I have not studied the difference between Atwater and Powell.  I pretty much use Powell, or any threading that I see, that I like.  I use a lot of color, not just two.   Powell's method allows one to add to, or subtract from, a block to increase or decrease the size of a design (make a longer point, or wave, etc.)

Hope this has been of help to you.....Sarah

Top 25 Contributor
Posts 45
Fortin wrote
on 24 Jan 2011 9:36 AM

Hi everyone!  Happy New Year!  Any shadow weavers out there?  Are there any samples?  Please remember the deadline for the calendar...So, a note on one of Powell's drafts:  Dressed my Macomber in Jagger Wool/silk at 30 epi, with black as the dark, and 3 shades of purples for the light, ascending and decending in value.  Used Powell 8-28, page 235.  Looks great except that there is a "blip" in the decending of the twill line.  Unfortuneately it shows in the lightest of the 3 colors of purple that I am using.  At first, thought I had made a threading error, but it was consistant across the warp (42 inches wide, 8 repeats of the draft), so checked it against the draft, matched up, kept weaving with Angora! as the thick and dark pick, looks great except for the blip.  I decided to take a closer look at the balance of the draft......At end 118 it reads Aa (1,2). To balance, it should be Bb (3,4) and at thread 124 it should read Bb, Cc or 2,3,4,5.....or,.... ends 16-19 and 25,26 should read the opposite of 118, 119 and 124-127.  I should have put the draft on the computer to look at it, but am not in the habit of using the computer for design, besides which these were done long before common use of the computer.  I have found other "errors in this book, but not to this extent, and have recognized them earlier in the weaving process.  Now, I could leave it, as it does not hurt the cloth structually, and the lay person would probably think that it is part of the design, assymetrical, but it hurts my eyes and my sensibilities, and that little bit of perfectionist in me!  I think that I will cut and repair with extra wire heddles, all 32 ends, rather than rethreading and sleying nearly 1260 ends.  Hate to have used that angora, have woven about 21 inches, but will use for samples...So, you may want to correct the draft, if you intend to use it.  If I can make this more clear to any of you, please let me know.

Sarah

Top 200 Contributor
Posts 4
on 25 Jan 2011 6:15 PM

Hi Sarah!  Still hanging in there and FINALLY winding a warp for a 10" sample warp.  I'm using a 10/2 perle cotton, at 27 epi.  Gold is the light and four "Santa Fe" hues for the dark (warm tan, brick red, turquoise and lavender).  I chose Powell 8-15 threading and I'm happy with the way I've sequenced the colors on the computer draft.

Question as I wind the warp: I'm winding the light and dark together of course.  Do you have any tip or clever way of handing the "extra" (odd)  thread at the point turn? I've been cutting and tying off the one end, continuing back with the extra thread as a single and then retying on at the other end of the warping board to resume the pair.  It seems like there should be a better way.

Thanks! 

Lise

Top 25 Contributor
Posts 45
Fortin wrote
on 26 Jan 2011 5:48 AM
Hi Lise,
 
Good to hear from you.  I usually just wind the extra one in then drop it when I am threading.  You really won’t be wasting that much, it just unrolls at the back as you use the warp, or, if you dress from front to back, keep pulling it out as you beam, cut it off before tying on.  It is easier than cutting and tying on again at the opposite end, and, if beaming back to front, maintains the loop at the back for the supplementary tie rod.
 
Hope this helps.
 
Sarah
Top 200 Contributor
Posts 4
on 26 Jan 2011 6:32 AM

Perfect!  I knew there was a simpler way.  And I am warping back to front, so keeping that loop intact is key.  Will post pics soon...

Any other shadow weavers want to share work in progress?

Lise

Top 25 Contributor
Posts 45
Fortin wrote
on 26 Jan 2011 7:55 AM

Great!  When you get to the end of the warp, you will lose some tension on the partner of the end that is dropped, weight it or now tie it to the tie rod.

Sarah

Top 25 Contributor
Posts 45
Fortin wrote
on 10 Mar 2011 1:32 PM

Hi to all of the Shadow Weave Group!  Do we have any pieces in progress? to post photos for the calendar?  I just posted photos the yardage I finished.  Powell 8-6 in Harrisville Shetland with some Highland for weft, thick and thin.  I am teaching a weave and sew a jacket class at Harrisville in June and needed some samples for the class since we will be weaving in their Shetland yarn.  I am not used to weaving a heavier, resulting in loftier yarn after washing, so was a good experience with quite rapid weaving at 15 EPI and 12-15 PPI.  Am happy with the results and the dimensional looks acheived by using shades and tints of the warp colors.  Hope this helps with some ideas for your shadow weave experience.  The photos are posted in the study group gallery.

Sarah

Top 25 Contributor
Posts 45
Fortin wrote
on 10 Mar 2011 1:36 PM

Hi again, being new to the posting of photos, I put 2 (shows3!) photos in one posting, so double click on the photo to full view to bring up both of them

Sarah

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