Direct warping on Rigid Heddle

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Mary Hilker wrote
on 20 Feb 2012 7:18 AM

Second project, so very new to this... After using the direct method to warp with 10 dent heddle, and winding it up on the back beam 3 yards of warp I noted that 2  slots only have one thread in it so when I go to thread the holes at these spots I will not have a thread to slip into the hole. What to do??? I sure would hate to have to take it all off. I'm ready to tie onto the front beam at this point. Help... Any ideas? Will it show that much? I plan to use a rather thick weft thread. This is  a Schatch 20 Rigid Heddle Loom.

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Lynn Tedder wrote
on 23 Feb 2012 9:51 AM

You certainly don't need to take off the whole warp and start over. 

The only thing this will do is to reduce the width of the warp by 2 threads, and complicate the threading the holes a little. Depending on the size of your heddle, you will lose 1/2, 2/5 or 1/3 of an inch of warp width. If that isn't a problem, just thread the holes with threads from the slots with doubled warps. You don't say if your single threads are at the edges of your warp or not; it is a little easier if they are. If your single thread is inside the warp edges, it will probably need to go into a hole, and then you will need to pull out both threads from the next slot and put one through the empty slot, and the other through the next hole. And you will have to do this for the rest of the warp.  (This is still less work than taking everything off and starting over.)

If your project really needs the two missing warp threads and you haven't wound the warp onto the back beam yet, you can just put another pair of threads through the next available slot, beam, and thread as above, making sure to move warps into any empty slots or holes as needed. If you have already beamed the warp, go ahead and thread as described above, then wind two more warp ends the same length as your warp ends. Letting the back of these two ends hang free (to the floor) off the back of the loom for the moment, thread them through the slot and hole at one side, and tie them in with the rest of the warp ends onto the front beam. Next, wind the back ends of the two free warp ends around something that you can put weights like coins or washers into (prescription pill bottles or 35mm film canisters--if anyone still has them in this age of digital cameras--both work fine) until they are short enough to hang above the floor. Put enough weight into them so that they hang at the same tension as the rest of warp, and you are good to go.

You will have to watch and unwind the hanging warp ends occasionally to keep them suspended as you weave and advance the warp.

Hope this helps,

Lynn Tedder

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