Hey All.....as you work your way through your Summer and Winter projects, use this thread to post your questions, concerns, successes and failures so everyone can grow and learn......anyone have a project idea in mind yet??
HI Tied Weavers! I have posted a pic of an original Tied Weave I completed this year in the Handwoven Gallery.....entitled Ultimate Swirl......I'd love to see what you are weaving in Tied Weaves! I have also posted an oldie, but a goodie, a rag rug woven on 6 shafts in Single Three Tie weave.....entitled Su's Rug (how creative, eh?? <gg>).....
For those of you new to Tied Weaves, Summer and Winter is a great place to start. If you feel uncomfortalbe starting on your own, let me know and I can send you some info to help you get started. Hope to see some pics of your tied weave efforst soon!
Su: I'll take whatever you're offering in the way of extra information and encouragement! I've read some articles and think I understand what goes on with tied weave and block / profile drafts. I've even tentatively picked a threading from an old issue of Handwoven that I thought I'd put on to play with. But then I have a mind-boggle and think I'm not sure what I'm doing.
I'm waiting for my new sectional back beam to arrive & then I'll have a never-before-woven-on-by-me 8 shaft loom to put this project on. (I've never woven on an 8 shaft before - this is my maiden voyage with it!)
HI Kate....it would help to know where you are starting.....can you tell me a bit about your project? Which Handwoven article are you drawing from? And do you have any specific questions? I'd be happy to help, but it would be a bit more practicle if we could narrow downt he "mind boggle" a bit! <g>
In the March/April '91 Handwoven there's a Winter Nights Pillow - I thought I'd use the threading for that - since I'm planning to use 10/2 cotton for my sampler warp at 24-28 epi it should come out a bit less than the 10-inch recommenced sampler width from the general study group info. Does that sound reasonable?
I think once I get my loom ready and start the warping, I'll feel better about the whole thing. I just get to trying to plan steps in my head and somewhere between threading and treadling I suffer a mental brown-out. Maybe it's performance anxiety? Kate
The Winter Nights Pillow is really pretty, and an excellent way to start your study of Summer and Winter!
You said you wish to use 10/2 cotton, and I would recommend a sett of 28 epi for Summer and Winter. Usually for any Tied Weave, a good place to start for sett is to use a number that is about 2/3 the difference between a tabby and twill sett. Since 10/2 cotton is generally sett from 24-30 epi for those weaves, 28 epi should give you a good cloth. If you wish to make the sampler a little wider you have a few options...
Since you are doing S&W, which is a 4 thread block, you would need to add 72 threads or 18 blocks. These blocks could be added at either end or in the middle or anywhere in the draft that you choose.
1. If you want to keep the color order of the original design, adding them to the outside edge is probably the simplest. Add 9 blocks to the beginning, then thread as per the directions in the article, then add 9 more blocks at the end for a total of 280 threads and 10 inches in width.
2. If you are going to use your own color or all one color warp, you can simply add 18 blocks to the beginning and the end of the draft. This can be either an A or B block, your choice.
3. You can just weave it 7.4 inches wide....<g>
When you get your warp ready to thread, pay close attention to the threads on shafts one and two and make sure they are in order. Before you tie off a threaded block, check the threading to make sure. After w hile it will become quite easy to remember the threading for each block.
Take it one step at a time Kate. While you thread, remember that all the threads you are putting on shafts one and two are the tie down threads and all the threads you are putting on shafts 3 and 4 are the pattern warps. Knowing this will help you while you are treadling.
Performance anxiety?? No worries! We are here to learn!! We learn whether we perform perfectly or not...........
Let me know if you have any questions along the way!
Thanks for your kind words. Well, it's been a while & things have changed in the interim. I got the sectional warp beam on the loom and realized that the Winter Nights pillow draft was for 4 harnesses - and I was all gung ho to do something w more than 4 because it's an 8 harnes loom. So I went with a modification of the cover project from the Study Group issue, keeping your recommendation of 28epi. It's coming along slowly; I try to make a point of getting at least a few picks in before I leave for work each morning. Aside from 1 skipped dent, everything seem to be going along pretty well. I like the rhythm of alternating the ground and pattern warps (although that's one of my variations - the warp and pattern weft are 10/2 cotton, with the ground weft of 20/2 cotton.)
I have a question; are you familiar with the book Patterns for Handweaving by John Landes w threading drafts and notes by Mary Meigs Atwater? I ended up w a copy from a weavers' estate and would like to try one of the drafts shown (probably as another sample at first to get my feet firmly under me), but am insecure about Ms Atwater's comment "Treadelings are not given. Anyone familiar w these weaves will have no difficulty in following the patterns from the illustrations." Obviously I'm not familiar enough yet.... Kate
HI Kate! Your weaving looks lovley! It is good you are developing rhythm while weaving. Weaving with two shuttles is not bad at all once you can establish that rhythm. Using a pattern weft that is heavier than the ground weft is a good idea to get good pattern definition in your work. If you have enough warp on the loom you might also try using a pattern weft that is heavier than the warp (maybe heavier and softer so it will pack in well) and continue to use the finer ground weft. This will create more area of solid color rather than the salt and pepper or "brick" look the color shows now. You might want to beat a little harder too, to pack the weft colors a little more densely to create squares of nearly solid color with smaller center square a different color. You can also play with the order you use the tie down threads. Since I can see the cloth is exhibiting the alternating "brick" order, it means the tie down threads are being used in 1-2-1-2 order. You can vary that to 1-2-2-1, 2-1-1-2, 1-1-1-1 (dukagang order), 1-2-2-2, 2-1-1-1, etc....you can use any order you like, but it is prudent to choose one and then remain consistent for the length of the cloth you are weaving. Changing the tie down order can affect the way the pattern looks, as it changes where the pattern threads are tying the pattern weft to the surface of the ground cloth. Sometimes the change is subtle and sometimes rather dramatic.
I have never seen nor do I have a copy of the Landes book you are questioning. If you would like to send me more info, I can help you understand how to treadle it. If the draft you are wanting to decipher is a tied weave draft, the treadling is not hard to figure out. Let us say you didn't know the treadling for Summer and Winter (which I think should be more accurately called Single Two-Tie weave). All you have is the threading info, that being Block A threaded 1-3-2-3 or 1-P-2-P (with P=pattern). To transform to a treadling:
1 - in the threading this is the first tie down warp, in the treadling it would be the first ground pick
P - in the threading this is the first of two pattern warps on shaft 3, in the treadling the first tie down warp Plus pattern warps that will weave background
2 - in the threadin this is the second tie down warp, in the treadlin it would be the second ground pick or the opposite of pick #1
P - In the threading this is the second pattern warp in the unit on shaft 3, in the treadling the second tie down warp PLUS pattern warps that will weave background.
So if your warp were threaded 1-3-2-3, 1-3-2-3, 1-3-2-3, 1-4-2-4, 1-4-2-4, 1-4-2-4, 1-3-2-3, 1-3-2-3, 1-3-2-3 (AAABBBAA) then your treadling to weave pattern in Block A would be:
Raise shafts 1,2 and throw the first ground (tabby) pick
Raise shafts 1-4 and throw the first pattern pick
Raise shafts 3,4 and throw the second ground pick
Raise shafts 2-4 and throw the second pattern pick
This four pick sequence would be used for as long as you wanted to weave pattern in Block A. When you want to weave pattern in block B, you simply lift the tie down shaft PLUS shaft 3. If you want to weave pattern in BOTH blocks at the same time (this will give a horizontal line the color of the pattern in your cloth), then lift the tie down shaft PLUS both pattern shafts, i.e. 3 and 4. And when you want all background, lift only the tie down pick and throw the pattern pick. (this will result in All background in a horiaontal line across the width of the warp).
With Tied weaves you have pattern blocks that work independently of one another, so you can weave 1,2, all or none at any given time with a 2 block profile. If you increase the number of blocks you have even more patterning options.
Any block weave can be woven by looking at the cloth, determining when you want pattern in any particular block and leaving that pattern shaft down so the weft will float over it and create pattern.
Hope that helps Kate!
Su: Thanks! I'll have to re-read your explanation several times for it to sink in, but I think I get the idea. Here's the book info and a representative page, so you can see what I've got to work from. Landes is thought to have been a professional weaver in the Revolutionary period and the patterns were what he'd show to the housewives so they could pick what coverlet he would weave for them. Pretty fascinating; while I'm sure I'm not ready to start a whole coverlet yet, someday.... Kate
Hmmm, the photos don't seem to have reproduced. I'll have to re-figure how to do this... Kate
HI Kate.....You can send the photos to me at subu at subudesigns dot com if you can't get them to post here. If the Landes patterns are the profiles of the pattern and background areas, (regardless of the weave structure) you can figure the treadling by substituting the proper block treadling for the weave structure desired. That said, if there is a specific one you would like to work through together, just let me know!
If you want to learn a bit more about block weaves, try to find the book "Designing With Blocks" by Doramy Keasbey and/or read the chapter on profile drafting in Madelyn van der Hoogt's book, "The Complete Book of Drafting for Handweavers". Both very helpful references for what you are thinking about.
I would like to join this study group. What do I have to do to join?
Right now I have a project on both looms. One will be finished in a few days, so I would like to prepare for being a part of this study group. Thanks.
Welcome! I think you just joined. Su is very helpful and encouraging. Happy to have you weaving with us. Kate
HI Saundra! Kate is right....you just joined! Welcome to the Tied Weaves Study group! When your looms are free you can set up a project of your choice to work through. If you have questions about the project, the yarns or anything related to your tied weaves journey, just post 'em here and you'll get help.
Do you have a project in mind?? Do you have any specific questions about Tied Weaves before your start planning??
Thanks, Kate and Su, for your reply.
I do not have a specific project in mind. I have done tied weaves before. I have my looms set up with more heddles on shafts 1 and 2 so that I won't have to move them around before starting a tied weave project. I particularly like summer and winter. I am also interested in turned S&W and how to turn an overshot draft into a S&W draft. Would they also be acceptable discussions for this study group?