I am ready to start my first weaving project on my new Ashford 24" table loom, having only the experience of making one project on a rigid heddle loom. I have read a number of books on how to use this new loom and I believe I understand how to do most of it. However, for me, the descriptions of how to tie on the warp to both ends of the loom only confuse me. This loom just has some white strings on the ends and does not have a cloth. Can someone please try to make this clearer to me?
Although I know of your loom, I don't have any experience with it. Based on what you've written, I'm wondering if your loom has dowels to slip through the white strings. Then, I would think you could tie on to the dowel. I hope this makes sense or maybe someone with that loom will chime in.
I have an 8 shaft table loom and attach the warps according to the Debbie Chandler book. She gives detailed instructions for 3 alternative ways and one is bound to suit you. The book is in the Interweave book shop.
Basically I tie up to either the back or front beam, depending on the room I have available to work around the loom and table. If I tie onto the back beam I wind on as much as I need to, then start threading the heddles then the reed, check the threading and the tension, then start tying onto the front beam in 1 inch lots - I have a narrow loom so its not a chore. I reverse the process if working front to back.The warp threads that have been wound on have a piece of dowel through them, and I use venetian blind slats between the layers of warp. For knots I divide my warp threads into two and use a surgeons knot. Its strong but easy to adjust if you need to alter the tension. The main thing is to ensure the knot is not bulky so the cloth, or warp is going to lie evenly. You can use the same knots as you use on your rigid heddle loom.
Because my space is limited and I warp up alone I have made a temporary tension box using a pair of G clamps and 4 dowels and this really helps a lot as the cross sticks also become part of this; less chance for oopsies and crossed threads. Its crude but effective and preserves the cross. Once I have almost reached the end of winding on, I can simply move the cross sticks to the back of the loom and start the threading. Its easy to adapt this to both front and back threading. I also use this on my rigid heddle looms. Its pretty much the same technique as you are already familiar with, plus a few extra steps getting the warp threaded. If its a simple warp you can pretty much do a direct warp then adjust it for the four shafts, instead of the eyes on the rigid heddle.
Hope this makes sense and helps.